Hump Ridge Track, 2nd October 2014
With bad weather forecast for the next few days, I had my doubts about embarking on a trip to Southland to walk the Hump Ridge Track. However after picking up our fellow trampers, nine of us set off for Tuatapere in a mini-van anticipating rain and snow over the next 3 days. First stop was in Gore for tea and then we carried on to our accommodation at Tuatapere, arriving in daylight. The host was very helpful and gave us three rooms so none of us had to climb up to top bunks. [The climbing was still to come]. Some went and explored the township in between rain showers while others played table tennis and watched television, before retiring to bed.
The next morning was cool and overcast with the odd shower as we drove 20kms to the Rarakau Farm carpark. With parkas on, we set off walking at 8am, firstly through bush for half an hour and then down a long set of steps leading to Bluecliffs Beach in Te Waewae Bay. The track then crossed the Waikoau River on a swing-bridge past some cribs and on to a 4wheel-drive track, punctuated with puddles until we reached the beach. It made pleasant walking, but at times we were forced to scramble up onto stones to avoid the incoming waves. After an early lunch on the veranda of a hut, we crossed the Track Burn stream and walked in bush until the turn-off to the Okaka Hut at Flat Creek. It started with an easy amble through the forest until forty minutes of continuous boardwalk followed. As the terrain became steeper, we were pelted with several hail storms, but the hail-stones were small and dry so just bounced off our parkas. White patches like small polystyrene balls appeared on the ground. A shelter at Water Bridge was a welcome sight where we sat inside and had another lunch as several more hail storms passed through. The bridge across the stream was well-named as there was a billy tied onto a rope which could be lowered deep down for the last chance of getting water before the Okaka Hut, 9kms away.
The gradient became a lot steeper and the hail on the ground had turned into snow. From Stag Point we had views back down to Te Waewae Bay and also to the Hut. After leaving the sheltered bush, we were buffeted by strong wind gusts on the tops, sometimes almost getting blown off the boardwalk. The snow became deeper as we climbed, arriving at the hut at mid-afternoon. Snow had to be cleared before opening the door to the bunkrooms. The taps were frozen so Maurice and Noel climbed onto the tank stand and bailed out water to use for cooking and drinking. Because there was no gas or heating, we all put on extra layers of dry clothing and welcomed a hot brew in the kitchen in which the temperature was -1.6 degrees. It did rise to 5degrees after the cookers warmed it up.
We were joined by 4 other trampers for the night. A game of UNO kept us entertained with Neville coming out the winner, meanwhile the temperature outside remained in the minus’s. A loud clap of thunder and a spectacular flash of lightening startled us all, but fortunately that was to be the only one. With extra clothing on, we slid into our sleeping bags and hoped for good weather the next day. More snow fell during the night, but no rain. As it was murky and windy in the morning, we decided not to walk the loop around the tarns, instead leaving at 8:30am we backtracked for 30 minutes to the turn-off to Port Craig. Boardwalk and steps up and down took us to Luncheon Rock where we got views through the parting cloud of Te Waewae Bay, Lake Poteriteri and a viaduct. An early lunch was taken in the shelter before descending through the podocarp and silver beech forest to the junction with the tramline at Edwin Burn Viaduct. After following the tramline we reached Percyburn Viaduct which was closed due to restoration work. A detour took us down steep steps, across a bridge and a climb up the other side, while viewing the underside of Percyburn some 36metres above us. Second lunch was taken on the veranda of the Percyburn Restoration Trust Hut before a long walk on the tramline to Port Craig Hut where we arrived at mid-afternoon. With the luxury of running water at 2 sinks and an efficient log fire we were soon relaxing in the old converted school. Later we took a tour around the remaining relics and out to the remains of the old wharf at the Port Craig Town. On-site interpretation panels enabled us to get an insight of how the timber was milled, handled and shipped out between 1916 and 1928.
The ports, whiskeys and homemade brews came out before tea and then we played UNO once again with Dave winning this time.
Just after 7am on Sunday we departed Port Craig and followed a well graded track to walk the 17kms to the car park. The day was fine and parkas were stashed away in the packs. At times we got glimpses of Stewart Island and the beach as we made our way through the forest up on terraces.
A few quick dashes around headlands to dodge the incoming waves took us to Blowholes Beach for morning tea, Track Burn for lunch and then back to the car park, arriving at 12:30pm.
With a change of clothes and lots of stretching, we were on our way home, stopping at Winton, Clinton and Hampden where we had fish and chips and paua patties for tea.
Although it was cold at Okaka Hut, we had survived a tramp in hail, snow, wind and sunshine, with beautiful scenery and great company.
Thanks to Bronwyn, Jane, Noel, Dave, Murray, Neville, John and Maurice..
Phyllis
