Alps-2-Ocean Cycle Trail

Saturday 14th / Sunday 15th December

 

A rather iffy weather forecast was causing some concern as the eleven cyclists drove up the Waitaki Valley.  Saturday looked OK, but north-westerly rain was forecast to come over the main divide into the Mackenzie basin overnight and into Sunday.  Perhaps more concerning, nor-west winds of up to 50km/h were forecast for Sunday.  However, it was agreed to stick with Plan A.  This involved the seven ”Easy Riders”  starting from Quailburn and the four “Hard Tails” driving to Twizel, checking into the camping ground, then biking to Quailburn.

The Easy Riders found the Quailburn starting point to be clearly signposted on the Quailburn Road, about 1km short of the old woolshed.  They headed off across the flats into a steady nor-west wind.  The track soon began to climb relatively gently, then more steeply, and finally zigzag up to the high point at 900m on the lower slopes of the Ohau Range.  Although the climb was over 250m, the track had been well graded and steep pinches were nicely interspersed with easier slopes.  At the 900m point (the highest point on the whole A2O trail), the Easy Riders paused to draw breath, suck water, and take in the panoramic view extending across the Mackenzie Basin to the Ben Ohau Range and up Lake Ohau to the snow-topped mountains of the main divide.  From there, it was all downhill – literally.  The 350m descent to Lake Ohau Lodge was continuous and speed was limited only by the headwind, sharp corners, rough surfaces and courage.  Towards the bottom, the track traversed sections of beech forest notable for the brilliant red of flowering mistletoe in the trees and scarlet carpets of fallen mistletoe flowers on the track.    A brief pause at the track end while Jane, who had taken a diversion to the Glenmary Ski Club, rejoined the group, was followed by a down-wind top-gear blast  along the Lake Ohau Road to the track re-entrance at the foot of the lake.  A few hundred metres along the track, the Easy Riders met up with the Hard Tails and lunch was declared after a ride of about 2 ½ hours.

The next section truly offered an easy ride around the bottom end of Lake Ohau, on a flat well-surfaced track with more great views of the lake and Ben Ohau.  It was here that Sam spun out on a deceptively sharp bend  to remove some skin from a knee. The Easy Riders paused at the Ohau weir to replenish water and debate the merits of reaching Twizel by continuing across the weir on to canal roads versus turning down the Ohau River Road to SH8.  The unanimous verdict was to take the more scenic River Road.  Big mistake.  It was a bad road – much worse than a bad track because it provided a mix of huge potholes, deep shingle varying in size from boulders to dust, and steep ascents and descents up and down river terraces.  On one of these downhills John descended gracefully on to the grass verge as both wheels lost grip.  Thoroughly shaken physically and mentally, the group reached SH8, crossed the Ruataniwha Dam and turned westward up Max Smith Drive to struggle into the now stiff wind towards Twizel.  Finding a way into the town, whose street layout had been based on a plate of boiled spaghetti, was another challenge.  Four riders made it to the camping ground via Ostler Drive and opposing circuits of Mackenzie Drive, while the other three diverted down to Lake Ruataniwha ,ostensibly to watch the rowing and explore the delights of the Ruataniwha camp.  The afternoon leg had taken between 2 and 3 hours and the total day’s ride amounted to 60km (more in three cases).

Meanwhile, the Hard Tails had had a hard beat into the wind up Lake Ohau, followed by a wind-assisted climb to the 900m high point, a descent initially slowed by the need for careful navigation of the zigzag, and then a downwind/downhill blast across the grassy lower slopes to recover the Easy Riders’ vehicles at Quailburn and rejoin the others at Twizel.

Tents pitched, bodies showered, wounds patched, it was time to dine.  The Bistro offered suitably large and tasty meals ranging from cod through ham and steak to pork bellies washed down by rehydrating refreshments.  Easy Riders again led the way, this time into the New York baked cheesecake, although only Neville managed three courses.

The sleep was deep, punctuated only by feminine snoring and a brief shower of rain, and terminated by a rowing mother rousing her charges at 5.50am to prepare for the regatta;  7.30 saw all eleven bikers on the road.  As they drove up the east side of Lake Pukaki, they could see the clouds spilling over the divide and enshrouding the alpine tops.  They parked at Jollie River, lowered posteriors gingerly on to saddles and pedalled off the 12km up the bumpy Tasman River flats, crossing several streams on the way, to reach Tasman Point – the top end of the A2O trail.  The head wind was brisk, but nowhere near the threatened 50km/h.  Photos taken (unfortunately Aoraki the Cloud Piercer wasn’t doing so that day), the eleven headed down wind and down river back to the vehicles – a round trip of 2 hours.  On the way, Murray and John diverted to explore the 1947 Mt Cook Station power station on a small creek.  And Maurice, attempting an Evel  Knievel  on a bridge that was too short for the stream it crossed, did an almost damage free a-over-k.

Then it was back in the vehicles to drive down the lake to a park close to where Hayman Road joins SH8.  This avoided a 40km ride on mainly dusty gravel road with backs to the scenery.  By now the weather was threatening and they could see the rain chasing them down Lake Pukaki , catching up with them sufficiently to require windscreen wipers.  Lunch was eaten with parkas on before mounting up for the last 19km leg.  Fortunately the rain came to nothing and the Easy Riders headed off on the beautifully surfaced track around the bottom end of Lake Pukaki, as the Hard Tails drove to the end of the track to ride back.  Although clouds obscured the Alps, the view up the lake was still stunning, with a silvery sheen on the water framed by the Ben Ohau range.  The riders crossed the Pukaki High Dam – possibly the roughest piece of track on the whole trip – made a quick stop at the somewhat run-down information centre next to a kiosk selling the most expensive icecreams in New Zealand, and crossed SH8 to take the road down the side of the Pukaki River to join the track across the Pukaki flats and finish by SH8 just before the Twizel River bridge.  A short wait for the Hard Tails and it was bikes on trailers, quick changes into street gear, a stop at the Wrinkly Rams for caffeine fixes, and off home.

The total ride had been 103km, plus (for those who had explored the Ruataniwha camp) or minus (for the Hard Tailers who had wisely not ridden the Ohau River Road), taking about 10 hours.  The track had varied from smooth seal to bone-shaking clay and gravel.  The weather had held and the scenery had always been spectacular.  The company had invariably been entertaining, thanks to the following cast:

Hard Tails – Maurice, Phyllis, Bronwyn and Noel;

Easy riders – Jane, Graham, John, Robbie, Sam, Murray and Neville;

and particularly to Maurice’s superb organization.