Otehake River Hot Spring – Queens Birthday 2012

Trip Report for the Queens Birthday Trip of 2012 to the hot springs on the Otehake River at Arthur’s Pass

 

This trip turned into an all boys trip with 5 lads setting off early on the Saturday morning. A fairly uneventful trip punctuated only by the eating of some delicious muffins en route saw us arrive at the village of Arthur’s Pass just in time for coffee which was drunk as we carried on over the Pass to  Aickens and the carpark where the Taramakau River valley is accessed. A rapid change into tramping gear, gobble down another muffin and we were off getting wet feet within the first 15 minutes as we crossed the Otira River and headed up  the Taramakau. We carefully avoided the spot where Maurice had plunged in to a deep hole on a previous trip in this area. The walk improved dramatically after the turn off towards Lake Kaurapataka with giant trees making a spectacular appearance as we ambled up the track. A wide selection of rimu, miro and red beech, as well as many smaller species like marble leaf , horopito and broad leaf filled the forest with abundant ferns covering the forest floor. Very pleasant. Eventually the lake appeared and a second lunch spot beside the lake edge was found. Plenty of other vegetation here with abundant regeneration of rimu and lancewoods. On around the lake with even bigger red beeches, some of the largest seen yet, fantastic views over the still water of the lake and the reflections of the tree covered hills surrounding the lake. The walking now a little trickier with lots of slippery roots as we sidle around to the head of the lake. A small saddle and down a very steep gut got us down to the Otehake River. It was higher than I had seen but we head up the river and through the gorge, with many crossings to make as we weave from one bank to the other as bluffs bar the way. The day gets short now and darkness looms as we cross the last time. The smell of sulphur getting stronger as the daylight fades. Time for the GPS and we don’t have far to go now, lucky I brought the right GPS this time, this one has batteries, it tells us that it is only a few hundred meters to the hot spring and the camping spot that is the destination for this trip. Luckily the small entrance up to the camping area on the island in between the 2 branches of the river appears, it is well hidden with the cairn being very mossy and the shrubbery having covered most of it.

 

Great relief as the tents are pitched and the camp is set up, torches on as the meals are prepared. After tea, we search out the springs which are often hidden due to the fickle nature of the river, one very hot spot is found and quickly expanded to accommodate a body. It is too late to get into too many excavations but everyone has a turn with the pool big enough to hold 3 people but only for short duration as the temperature soon gets too much. Some in the party rate the experience particularly highly, higher than anything else indeed. The hot baths lead to exhaustion in the end and getting to bed is the right thing to do. During the night the weather changes as predicted and mild drizzle eventually turns to rain. The morning dawns grey and wet putting the planned walk up the hill towards Koropuku Hut right off the menu. Instead with combined effort and newly found spade the pool site is developed into a fully fledged thermal resort, all temperatures are catered for and the only thing missing is a qualified masseuse (no Swedish nurses within a bulls roar). The morning flies by and with some reluctance we return to camp for lunch and a Nana nap for all, all that exercise has been our undoing.

After naps the weather improves, again as predicted, but alas it is deemed too late for walking and in any case the river is too high to cross. More lounging in the various pools instead with some being much more susceptible to the effects of heat and sulphur than others and having to retire to other pursuits. Eventually towards the latter part of the day a lone German appeared on the bank of the river, a hardy soul indeed as he had come from the Otehake Hut which by his declaration doesn’t get too many visitors with the hut book dating back to 1992 and still being less than half full. The German did not waste any time before jumping into the lovely hot water. A little while later more bodies were seen on the horizon, firstly 2 more looking very wet and exhausted and eventually another 9 appeared being members of the Christchurch Tramping Club. They had spent the previous night at the Koropuku Hut and climbed back up the very steep gut and over the hill and along the high water track up the Otehake River. With so many bodies now looking for a spot in the pools, our small group retired and busied ourselves with the building of a camp fire, no mean feat with the wet state of our surroundings. Eventually after 3 fire starters we had ourselves a fire although most of the heat went into drying the wood. We had a late night and it was well after 9 when most had retired, but what a good sleep after our exhausting day. In the morning I snuck out of bed at 6.45 and headed for the hot water only to find that Ross had beaten me to it , what a good way to start the day, with a hot bath, not the usual smelly trampers us. Other bodies soon joined and before long the pools were full of people……. time to go, after breakfast we headed back down the river and after one shallow crossing came to the high water track and decided to take that for a change. A radical change it was, very steep ups and some downs, very neglected it was, the only thing in its favour was that there were plenty of markers to show the way. To cover just over a kilometre took an hour and a half, I guess its fair to say none of us will want to do that bit again. We followed the same way out and had lunch in our old spot by the lake. It was good to be amongst the big trees again. Eventually we got back to the vehicle to discover that some more needy person than us had decided to relieve me of the spare wheel. It sort of popped the bubble a bit really, but looking on the bright side, at least they didn’t take the whole vehicle nor smash any windows to get into it. Off to the village for a coffee and then we hit the road to home, stopping in Geraldine for what for the 4 of us who ordered a roast meal was probably the worst roast meal that we had ever had.

Still we had a lot of laughs during this weekend and that provided enough mirth to get us all the way home. Thanks to Steve, John, Ross and Bill for a fine trip.  Robbie